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White supremacists find a new platform to spread hate: A federal courtroom in Charlottesville. Some particles are so big that when they pummel a car roof or the fronds of a banana tree, it sounds like hail. They accumulate into banks that slowly cover doors, pour into windows, make rooftops sag. The ash is jettisoned thousands of meters into the sky, but the heaviest, thickest particles eventually give way to gravity. Lava flows have destroyed more than 1,000 houses in their paths. Silence would reign in the exclusion zone if it weren’t for what residents have named “the beast.” The volcano’s constant roar makes conversation almost impossible, nearly drowns out both the barking of abandoned dogs and the murmur of a flock of pigeons circling the sky in search of a coop that no longer exists.Īnother sound: families weeping as they are accompanied by police to witness their homes as they succumb. The creep of the lava, the buildup of ash, are matched by the growing anguish of the men and women whose way of life is being erased. What once seemed a given - the land beneath people's feet - becomes as fluid and unpredictable as the lives the eruption threw into tumult. Human time and geological time were brought into sync by the volcano. Now, evacuated residents line up in cars and trucks on the zone's edge, awaiting permission to make escorted trips home to rescue their dearest possessions, or at least see their endangered properties. 
Spaniards and other Europeans spent vacations or retired here to be near the sea, while locals harvested banana trees in the semitropical warmth of Spain’s Canary Islands.
The lush land previously approximated an earthly paradise for both residents and visitors. Only police, soldiers, and scientists are allowed to move freely in the exclusion zone, which cuts La Palma’s western shore in two. 19, authorities have declared more than 20,000 acres (8,200 hectares) between the Cumbre Vieja volcano and the Atlantic Ocean off-limits.
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